Come write with me at Maruia River Retreat, June 5-8 2026!

Naomi Arnold

New Zealand journalist & author

NORTHBOUND

Four seasons of solitude on Te Araroa

HarperCollins, April 2025

Walking from Bluff, at the bottom of the South Island, to Cape Reinga, at the top of the North Island, award-winning journalist Naomi Arnold spends nearly nine months following Te Araroa, fulfilling a 20-year dream. Alone, she traverses mountains, rivers, cities and plains from summer to spring, walking on through days of thick mud, blazing sun, lightning storms, and cold, starlit nights. Along the way she encounters colourful locals and travellers who delight and inspire her. 

  • A Nielsen and Amazon bestseller
  • Shortlisted for the 2026 Ockham Book Awards
  • Highly Commended at the NZ Mountain Film & Book Awards 
  • 2025 Whitcoulls Top 100 Books
  • Best Book of the Year at The Listener, Newsroom, The NZ Herald, The Spinoff, and Auckland Libraries
  • Spotify Best Audiobooks of 2025
  • Longlisted for the 2026 NZ Audiobook of the Year

Journalism

A selection of magazine, newspaper and web journalism from 2007 to today.

Science & environment

Hope for the underbirds

It is such a dismal winter day at Awarua Bay, near Bluff, that the chimney stack of the Tiwai Point aluminium smelter is hidden in cloud. The smelter is on the edge of the estuary, on the edge of everything; the sort of place where we build our heavy industry, the sort of place where the birds are.

It’s June 2025, and a handful of the world’s last pukunui, or southern New Zealand dotterels, are spending the winter here. Across Foveaux Strait are the mountaintops of Stewart Island/Rakiura, the b...

One pig. One night. Fifty-six frogs.

Have you heard the tale of the frog in the pig? Here’s how it goes. One afternoon in 2010, a hunter was out in Coromandel’s Wharekirauponga Valley when he and his dogs cornered a feral pig in the bottom of a small stream. When he gutted it, he saw the pig’s intestines twitching, and when he slit them open, a tiny frog jumped out. Based on the hunter’s description, it was likely a native species, either an Archey’s or Hochstetter’s frog. That frog had a lucky escape and became the Little Red Ridi...

Land of the bright white light

Two scientists mapping New Zealand’s light pollution have found our nights became a lot brighter over the past decade—and that most of our public lighting is now bright blue-white light-emitting diodes (LEDs) which negatively affect human and animal health.

Te Pūkenga Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology ecologist Ellen Cieraad and wildlife biologist Bridgette Farnworth used satellite data to map New Zealand’s light pollution and found it grew by 37.4 per cent from 2012 to 2021. That’s fa...

Losing the ice

In February, Nelson photographer Virginia Woolf drove to Aoraki/Mount Cook to document glacier loss, as part of her climate change photography project Final Meltdown. But she was worried sick as she hit the road. Four days earlier, Cyclone Gabrielle had struck Gisborne, her childhood home, and she hadn’t heard from her parents since.

She’d spent the past few days in a flurry of calls and texts, even asking a cousin to get their local policeman friend to knock on her parents’ door to check they...

The wall that Frank built

The wall went up in 1964. It didn’t go up very far, mind you—1.4 metres of it was under the ground, with only about 50 centimetres sticking out the top. But Frank Evison, the prominent geophysicist who commissioned it, was satisfied.

Evison died in 2005, but the wall is still there. Low and grey and patched with lichen, set in a grassy river flat in the Maruia valley on State Highway 7, it’s surrounded by beech forest and dotted around with dandelions in the warmer months. If you just happened...
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Sport, outdoors & travel

Delve deep

At some point, when talking to New Zealand professional caver Kieran Mckay, you can’t help but blurt out: “Why?”

Why wedge your fragile body between tons of rock, through passages so pinched that one of them is dubbed “Castration Gap”?

Why camp underground in the wet and filth for days on end, sucking dank air, aware that you could be drowned or crushed at any second? Why risk death when you have no communication with the outside world, and rescue is days away?

Mckay has two different respons

Health, justice & society

The Valley

In the opening chapter of his first, remarkable book, Wellington lawyer and journalist Asher Emanuel shows us the gap he is writing into. “No account of statistics or arms-length analysis of policy can quite get to the truth of the matter: that the criminal justice system is operated by people, upon people.” The Valley is the long view, the story that daily journalism, with its focus on the new and different, doesn’t usually tell.

In late 2020, with enough grant money to give him a significant...

Profile & people

How to stand alone

One morning in the Bay of Islands, Nelson lawyer Sally Gepp lowered herself over the side of a boat into the gin-clear waters of Deep Water Cove. She was snorkelling with her family, hosted by environmental groups Fish Forever and the Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park. She had worked with these groups and Northland hapū Ngāti Kuta on getting better fishing controls for the Bay of Islands, where overfishing had left many parts of the seabed barren.

In some places the ecosystem was recove...